Author Topic: Help finding cheap knx products in Europe (dimmer, blind actuator & binary inp)  (Read 9882 times)

Raginglynx

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Hi,

I got good feedback on the push-buttons for knx in an earlier post. Now I'm about to build the house and look other things that are tried and at a lower price.

What I look for is:

knx-universal-dimmer able to control 230v Dimmable LED-lights (or other inexpensive solution). I've come cross a, hopefully, relatively cheap and hopefully high quality seller of LED-products (downlights, gardenlights, downlights with GU10 fitting) all dimmable and at 230v.

Blind actuator to control motorized projector screen and pleated blinds. Is it possible to control several blinds with same output?

Binary inputs to be able to connect movement sensors, light sensors and leakage sensors I guess still the cheapest way to control these things is to buy non-knx and connect to binary input, right?

Thanks!

Marie.O

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knx-universal-dimmer able to control 230v Dimmable LED-lights (or other inexpensive solution). I've come cross a, hopefully, relatively cheap and hopefully high quality seller of LED-products (downlights, gardenlights, downlights with GU10 fitting) all dimmable and at 230v.

The MDT stuff should work. Get one, with return guarantee, and test it. I personally don't like 230V LED stuff.

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Blind actuator to control motorized projector screen and pleated blinds. Is it possible to control several blinds with same output?

Same here. I have MDT and like them. You can control several blinds with one output, but you need a relais in between. In the end, I decided to control every blind individually, but group them with LinuxMCE. However, I would not try to control a motorized projector screen with a blind actuator, as the blind actuator is not exact enough.

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Binary inputs to be able to connect movement sensors, light sensors and leakage sensors I guess still the cheapest way to control these things is to buy non-knx and connect to binary input, right?

I have KNX PIRs as you are able to get more than motion, but also light intensity setup automatically. Apart from that, if you really want 1/0 only, binary inputs are neat. Some binary inputs only have problems with accepting higher frequency inputs. So if you have stuff that changes rapidly, and you want to count that, make sure your binary input supports it.

Apart from that, one word of advise, IF you have a significant other: Make sure your install works without LinuxMCE. It is okay, that timed events don't fire without LinuxMCE, but not being able to turn lights on/off, or opening/closing blinds without LinuxMCE running, is a recipe for trouble in the relationship.


Raginglynx

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Quote
The MDT stuff should work. Get one, with return guarantee, and test it. I personally don't like 230V LED stuff.
How come you don't like 230v LED stuff?

Same here. I have MDT and like them. You can control several blinds with one output, but you need a relais in between. In the end, I decided to control every blind individually, but group them with LinuxMCE. However, I would not try to control a motorized projector screen with a blind actuator, as the blind actuator is not exact enough.

Quote
I have KNX PIRs as you are able to get more than motion, but also light intensity setup automatically. Apart from that, if you really want 1/0 only, binary inputs are neat. Some binary inputs only have problems with accepting higher frequency inputs. So if you have stuff that changes rapidly, and you want to count that, make sure your binary input supports it.
How do you use your PIR's? For motion detection to light up all different kinds of rooms. Or just toilets, attic, closets?
Do you believe fully automated motion detected lighting control when entering and leaving a room is something worth trying. I've been advised not to use it that way before. Only for closets and toilets and use push-buttons for other spaces.

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Apart from that, one word of advise, IF you have a significant other: Make sure your install works without LinuxMCE. It is okay, that timed events don't fire without LinuxMCE, but not being able to turn lights on/off, or opening/closing blinds without LinuxMCE running, is a recipe for trouble in the relationship.
Good advise! Thank you! Does that apply for network running automation too? Telldus have their Tellstick NET that runs directly from the network without need of server. Would you consider that too much of a functionality risk too?


Marie.O

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Next time, please take your time to preview your post, as to make sure, quotes look right. It is very hard to decipher right now.

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How come you don't like 230v LED stuff?

Because one is wasting energy and other resources using a gazillion little transformers. At least I do not know of any LED that works at 230V without a transformer.

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How do you use your PIR's?

I use them to turn on/off lights in hallways (and soon guest toilet). I am also using them in a dual purpose room, which is both hallway and play room for the kids. Unfortunately, even PIRs are not detecting non-movable people. I planned on using them in other rooms as well, but won't due to them only working when motion is detected, and not presence.

Re Mixing of technology and SWMBOs: I made sure that all regular function work without a computer. Everything else is asking for trouble, imho.

Raginglynx

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Quote
Because one is wasting energy and other resources using a gazillion little transformers. At least I do not know of any LED that works at 230V without a transformer.

What do you suggest to use instead if one want a downlight application that is dimmable and energy-saving?
Can LED PWM-drivers be worse than 20-30W halogen-bulbs?


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I use them to turn on/off lights in hallways (and soon guest toilet). I am also using them in a dual purpose room, which is both hallway and play room for the kids. Unfortunately, even PIRs are not detecting non-movable people. I planned on using them in other rooms as well, but won't due to them only working when motion is detected, and not presence.
Some manufacturers suggest that their PIR's will act on a person typing on a computer. I haven't seen it myself, but you mean
that is hard if not impossible to find?

Re Mixing of technology and SWMBOs: I made sure that all regular function work without a computer. Everything else is asking for trouble, imho.
« Last Edit: April 03, 2012, 06:11:42 pm by Raginglynx »

Marie.O

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If it is too much work for you to properly quote your replies, it is too much work for me to answer them.

Raginglynx

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If it is too much work for you to properly quote your replies, it is too much work for me to answer them.

I've corrected it now. I'm sorry if you took it as lack of effort due to low interest, it wasn't my meaning. I really appreciate the help I get. Else I wouldn't be here taking time to write this.  :(

Marie.O

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I am using LED Stripes nearly exclusively in my home. You can drive a 5m LED Stripe from a 10W PSU if you have low power LEDs, or a 20W PSU if you have a bit more high powered LEDs. We used to have a 5 halogen downlights in a hallways connected to a 150W PSU. Now we have a single 5m LED strip powered by a 10W PSU. And if you feel like it, you can PWM control on the low voltage side with DMX (which is what I do), or spend a bit more on the PSU and control it on the 230V side. But controlling the stuff on the low voltage side seems MUCH less expensive. The 230V side only gets a regular switch.

Raginglynx

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Where do you get the 12 v pwm's from? How much do they cost approximately?