Fios and LMCE

[Stash_CEO]

Just an update....

I've ordered the gc-100 and mistakenly ordered 2 USBUIRT...just waiting for the GC-100 now...I'll keep you guys updated.

[Stash_CEO]

Stash_CEO,
how are you going to get the video signal to the screens and control the screens/volume etc?

I've read that HDMI can travel up to 50 feet and the closet I'm wiring into is about 20 feet away , that's what I'm gonna do (wire it HDMI).  And also audio will be handled by my surround sound receiver which I will control with usbuirt/gc-100

[tschak909]

It may be in your best interest, to use a HDMI to cat-6 balun pair to more reliably throw the signal longer distances.

-Thom

[Stash_CEO]

found cheap baluns on monoprice...may choose that or may go with hdmi and see if it degrades first.

[Techstyle]

I have my components in the basement and the tv in the living room. In cold weather I get some issues with hdcp handshake meaning the screen flashes on and off. I am using 25ft mono price inwall rated net jacket HDMI cables. I am going to add ferrite beads and possibly a HDMI repeater. The other thing you will notice is that long HDMI cables are heavy and put strain on your HDMI ports. Take a look at mono prices strain relief adapters that are tighter than the spec and screw into the screw above your port to ensure a strain relieved connection

[Stash_CEO]

do I need the ir blaster/recievers or can I just use the USBUIRT box.

[tschak909]

I would recommend using the emitters, it is infinitely more reliable, and can help combat against potential reflection and diffraction that does occur with infra-red signals. (of course, with IR, infinitely more reliable is definitely relative.. it is still just a one way control mechanism)

-Thom

[Stash_CEO]

can the adapter (GC-IRL IR Learner) from global cache..."Learn" IR codes to say...my in wall AC remote or any other ir remote...trying to control more than just cable boxes.   

[Stash_CEO]

also, If I use the GC-100 do I still need the USBUIRT or do they work together.  Sorry, still a NewB

[tschak909]

The gc100 and usbuirt re two different devices, offering IR blasting functionality. The difference is that the gc100 has multiple zones of IR.

The IRL can learn codes from any device, however, our IR code is linked into the Media Plugin, making it only useful for AV devices, at present. But it could be added to the Lighting, Climate, and other plugins.

-Thom

[Stash_CEO]

  HOORAY!  I successfully changed the channel on my fios cable box with usbuirt and web orbiter.  May not seem like much but months of research and tinkering just paid off.  This was just a test environment.  Next I'll add the GC-100 and the Onkyo 5.1 receiver to test the input switching and tuning.  Awesome! 

Also, got a network question, how do I tell my fios router to not give out IP addresses on wifi and to get them from the core. do I have to buy a seperate access point to put on the .80 network or can I do a DHCP relay and point the router to the COre for addresses.

[tschak909]

I literally set the core to DMZ, turn off the WIFI on the device, and use an external access point (a Trendnet TEW-690AP, with one TEW-AI070B antenna, and a double TEW-A1770B antenna.) and infinitely faster and more reliable.

-Thom

[Stash_CEO]

can I setup ip phone system with the verizon bundle package or is that not the same thing

[tschak909]

Verizon's IP telephone package is proprietary. Full stop. Not compatible with any open standard.

I use Flowroute, for my home phone: http://www.flowroute.com/

I basically buy a fixed packet of credits, and one DID for dialing in, with E911 support. Bought $35 worth of credit, three months ago, at about $22 now.

-Thom

[totallymaxed]

I have my components in the basement and the tv in the living room. In cold weather I get some issues with hdcp handshake meaning the screen flashes on and off. I am using 25ft mono price inwall rated net jacket HDMI cables. I am going to add ferrite beads and possibly a HDMI repeater. The other thing you will notice is that long HDMI cables are heavy and put strain on your HDMI ports. Take a look at mono prices strain relief adapters that are tighter than the spec and screw into the screw above your port to ensure a strain relieved connection

Run a single CAT5E/CAT6 from the Basement to the Living room and use an HDBASEt CAT5/6 transmitter/receiver to send the HDMI to the room. 25 feet is really at the very limit of what you can reliably do with even very expensive HDMI cable - if its more 2m (6 ft) we always use CAT5/6 and HDBASEt.

All the best

Andrew