I can screen shot and post my setup screens on my photobucket, no problem.  At the moment though I am not actually using linuxmce for anything other than KDE desktop and my device tree is empty.  I might have a restore point with all my devices configured I can load up or I can put the cam back temporarily to show how I normally use it. 

You are correct though that there is no motion or motion wrapper anywhere in my device tree.  I use Advanced IP Camera (/hat tip to the author of that template) as it implements DCE I create it as a top level device and I could be wrong but I believe it defaults to controlled by CORE.  This D-Link has some other features I was not using like it's own built in motion detection, email notifications, etc.  I struggled for so long I just got burnt out on cameras and decided as long as they stream I am happy.  One nice feature though is that although its not associated with LinuxMCE, it is up and running right now.  To view it I just open a browser and click a bookmark to view the feed.  With it on my external network, I can also still use all the MyDLink iphone and remote browser features like zoom etc.

It is a given that you need to isolate the video feed on almost any IP camera template, though normally you specify a image location and a video location.  It was my understanding that the still image was used by motion and was what is getting pushed to Web Orbiter 2.0.  Where my device data asks for image location I put in the video feed, and then repeat it once more in the video feed url area.  Prior to switching to java view as default I also noticed that when I used the .cgi image address instead of the .jpeg for my image URL I got streaming video on Web Orbiter 2.0 devices.  What you see when going to camera view is a constantly loading screen because the image keeps changing and never finishes 'loading'.   

Beginner UDP question here.

I need to write some code so that a networked node can call a socket and send() a few packets to dcerouter.  This is dirty and primarily to give me something to build on and improve once it's operational.  Niceties like waiting for ACK, ipv6, etc, I can add later if I stay with this hardware.

Question:  As I read C/C++ tutorials on socket transmission everything seems to imply I need to write code on both client and server, one to send() and one to recv().  Is this necessary on lmce or is dcerouter ready to accept a packet being thrown at it?

Question2:  Would a close function be necessary?  It's against almost everything I have read but if my intention is to constantly watch for incoming data from a connected node, wouldn't I want the socket open already?



*device info if it helps.  I am using a networked computer and keytronics board to function as a contact switch monitor.  A normally open circuit (doorbell button would momentarily close) wires to a keyboard input, [8].  The connected PC will understand that if keyboard input=[8] then send (?) data to 192.168.80.1/60000.  This remote PC will run headless and will eventually have more switches wired to the keytronics board.  Anything I can wire as normally open with closed only when something happens can send a unique data package. I will need to be creative in how I close contacts, like a window sensor that when the window is down, a magnet holds a switch open so when the window opens the circuit closes and a key press is sent to the computer.  Switches are < $0.50 each retail and a keyboard has 102 keys.  Compared to any other doorbell/sensor system I think this warrants some experimenting and code learning on my part.

My trick for getting security cam feeds to WO2.0 has been in the camera setup.

I tried many times to get motion detection working and failed repeatedly.  I then had a really good chat with a lmce veteran who (after a few /deep breaths) put it simple and said "use motion detectors to detect motion."

Eureka!  I don't need a program to sit there comparing stills and trying to pick out differences, 5+ times a second.  Now my cameras are set up as video streams.  In the D-Link browser I changed <IP>/home.htm to display java instead of .jpeg stills.  The difference on all orbiters is noticably smoother video since it is not dependent on refreshing the page.  Once I set <IP>/home.htm to java view, I checked page source to find the frame and applied that to my address bar:  <IP>/jview.htm? (I forget now).  This gives me real time video without the rest of the browser page, that URL is where I point my camera templates and haven't had an issue with any orbiter cam view.

I am certain that I misunderstand the way motion/motion wrapper/still view & video feed works but I am happy with my settings now.  If I think I hear someone pull in the driveway I hit the camera feed and check.  When I add motion sensors (stupidly expensive little buggers) then I can worry about events that auto-record, email alerts, etc.

Thanks JaseP,

I wasn't aware of where these settings were wrote, thank you and I will check out my channels.conf.  I am going to do some troubleshooting and setting changing later this week when I add my roommates Media Director.  I plan to start with removing the HDhomerun device and unplugging it from the network.  When reconnecting I am going to test with only having a single coax line fed to it.  Configure Myth with one tuner and see how it goes.  Then I can remove it again and do the setup again with the coax going to the other tuner.  This should give me volumes of information about how the tuners are handled within Myth and LMCE.  Careful research of my various log files will help me understand what the problem is when I try to watch tuner-0 on one MD and tuner-1 on another.  Any blaring errors I can troubleshoot or take over to the Myth forums.

For the adapter as cable box issue I haven't found a good avenue to start testing.  I briefly looked over the template for a cable box but without one here to connect and test I can't see how Myth treats it.  Ideally I would like to have IR-controlled digital-to-analog converter box (AV out) going to the living room TV, converter box (coax out) going to the tuner input of WinTV-150 and streamed to my hybrid, HDhomerun-0 tuner streaming to my roommate's MD and HDhomerun-1 reserved for recordings.  I believe this addresses most known issues and problematic installations I have read about:

WinTV-150 likes to default back to Tuner input if not told otherwise
IR control of a device doesn't give feedback so I wouldn't trust it for recordings
This particular converter box uses the same IR code for on/off so I need visual feedback that it is in the right state (ie onscreen tv)
Neither me or my roommate watch many shows so it's unlikely that we would ever need more than 1 recording at a time
My USBUIRT is destined for the living room after I do more testing at my bench, it can reach the converter from there easily.

Digging at an old thread just because I wasn't around when this came up.  Never too late to thank someone for good work.

I absolutely love web-orbiter 2.0 and use it on lots of devices in my house.  As you said in your first few posts you developed it for use in in-wall applications, I also am looking for 'easy' ways of adding orbiters to in-wall mounts around my home.  Because it runs in a browser I am looking at extremely cheap tablets, checkout aisle hardware.  Touch-to-wake and browser going to hibernate have been two areas I am critical on as having to press a tiny power button or type a login/device select defeats the purpose of having a readily available orbiter in the placement I am adding them (next to light switches).  Would you mind if I asked what devices you like to use for these type of in-wall applications?  My screen/device size is pretty narrow because if I exceed 7" diagonal screen or 8'ish" diagonal device size I can't make it look proper in a standard wall plate.  I can stretch my custom made plate covers some but the more I do the more the eye tells you something isn't quite right.

To update this thread my quick update of devices running WO2.0 is:

Sony PS Vita - Vibrant and beautiful, my favorite and most responsive WO
HP t5500 thin client, running Win CE 4.20?, IE - worked w/ keyboard or mouse, didn't have a touchscreen to test with
Nintendo DS XL - same resolution as suggested for DS
iPhone 4 w/ iOS 5 - several issues with Dianemo and Roaming Orb (trac ticketed) but works great w/ WO2.0

Some devices not quite able to run WO2.0

Nintendo DS lite - I get memory errors using, this uses the same Opera version as the DS XL
Sony Playstation Portable 2000 (PSP thin) - believe this to be a java issue
Project boxes (several) - I have been trying to do minimal requirement browser based WO2.0 on several project machines using Tiny Core Linux and Damn Small Linux.  I forget the various browsers I have tried but I am trying things such as IceWeaver and Lynx with hopes of keeping install size as small as possible.  If I get something working I will let you know, provided it's helpful to you.

Here is another example of a cheap orbiter, 7" android tablet (I forget the model it was < $20 eBay used.  Concept only as I am not sure if there is touch to wake capabilities or where the power connects on this.  I added the black plate and black Z-Wave switch for overall appearance.  Using cheap hardware while it is kind of my niche is not going to provide you full functionality of on-going development on qOrbiter or anything beyond basic Proxy Orbiter/Touch Orbiter. 



Out of my price range but not by much would be use iPhone (original - 3G) or iPod Touch, mounted horizontally.  You would access it with the front ( o ) button, or for even more customized approach you could fill in the ( o ) with clay, leave it mounded high and extend it up and down which gives you a larger target to press.  Now you need to cover the clay with black film, heavy garbage-bag stock or other thin durable stock would work.  Cover the entire device now with (40mil +) clear film.  One other really nice idea here would be to use Mirror screen protectors.  These are available in precut patterns, I would recommend buying one for an iPad to give you the largest size cheap.  This film is mirror reflective until you light the screen at which time it passes light through normally.  Very slick as guests would not know what the mirror in the switch cover is until you touch the right place.  Additional cost of that option would be < $10 and a trip to a mall.  Have fun with it, there is nothing wrong with being a little flashy in your home. =)

*Note- Sharing my ideas was the purpose of this post in the Marketplace.  People wanting help applying these ideas themselves and taking on this as a DIY project is encouraged.  I will be doing a more complete wiki article explaining how I build the AC separating shield and mounting bracket inside the wall.  Marketplace and charging was only for those who wanted me to build it and ship it to them ready to install. 

I have the same issue with my text to speech when setting up respond to events.  The best work around I have found is described below as best I am able, it requires some testing on your part.

Send text to device, 21 (my main tv orbiter)
"Motion has been detected"

Send text to device, 21
"Motion detected on the driveway camera"

I do two separate announcements, the first message for motion is always the same and not specific to location.  I find this is enough to get my attention and allows me to pay attention to the second message.  About half way through the first announcement I am now listening closely to what cam went off.

Test command and listen to what words are not clear or are getting cut off.  Below in red I am showing what word is cut off

*Motion has been detected
*Motion detected on the driveway camera

Now I move the words in red onto their own line, this is tricky though because it doesn't seem to drop off words based on message length.  So it would leave off any word I leave last.  Here is how I did it:

Send text to device, 21
"Motion has been, d"
Send text to device, 21
"Detected, m"

Send text to device, 21
"Motion detected on the drive, w"
Send text to device, 21
"way camera, end"

Experiment with that, it was frustrating for me as well because the rules of it leaving off a word could not be easily predicted.  When using 8.10 I also had some success using spaces and commas to separate phrases as the words seemed to move too quickly.  An example would be ",Moe schion     has, Ben , detec  Ted  ,d"

I now have an orbiter other than the screen I use for IRC so am able to help you test this again.  Hulu is still not working in my install.  On your recommendation I last attempted several uncheck, save, reload.  Today while I worked on other things I waited with full screen ui2 running for 3 hours and was never prompted to reload.  You were pretty clear that the reload request must come from linuxmce and not to reload before it prompts me to.

Willing to bet here that I may have a non-typical Hulu problem that would be seperate from what you are troubleshooting.  I can't use Hulu because of my bandwidth anyways so let me know if you ever want to look into this one.

Code:

05 08/26/12 18:41:27.642 Infrared Code not found for Command 192. Will not be processed by IRBase. <0xb58f9b70>
05 08/26/12 18:41:27.642 #### Pre-Process Queue = 1 <0xb58f9b70>
05 08/26/12 18:41:27.660 _QueueProc Pre - 192 : 0 <0xb4ef8b70>
05 08/26/12 18:41:27.660 GSD-Sleep Pre 192 : 0 <0xb4ef8b70>
05 08/26/12 18:41:27.660 Could not find Infrared Code for Command 192. <0xb4ef8b70>
05 08/26/12 18:41:27.660 GSD-Sleep Post 192 : 0 <0xb4ef8b70>
05 08/26/12 18:41:27.660 _QueueProc Post - 192 : 0 <0xb4ef8b70>

I didn't make changes to USBUIRT 0038 yet, but I found where I could add command group Light On/Off to my fireplace template.  When I went to edit those new commands I found 192 and 193.  I still think that USBUIRT 0038 still needs some instruction with what to do with that command.  Adding that command group properly to the device was trivial I would guess unless a GSD IR light was ever applied to this template where it would be responsible for understanding commands.  Fortunately for me this is a child device that only needs to understand it's own IR code. 

I got around to spending some time on this today.  Here is an overview of what I attempted this time and my result.


Typing this mostly from memory so if you need specifics I will get back with you.

Compared the templates for Z-Wave Light and Generic AV equipment controlled with IR.  Using these two types of device templates I created a new template.

Generic IR Light (USBUIRT)
controlled via category:
  Generic IO
  Lighting
  Infrared
  Specialized
  Other

Comm Method:
  Infrared

I then had to add a custom command group:
 IR LIGHTING
  192: Turn IR Light On:  power  430A014555F0 430A014555F0    : note here the wiki uses 2 spaces after power
  193: Turn IR Light Off:  power  430A014555F0 430A014555F0    : question, should I list two codes when they are the same?
  - with the device data listing all codes, could I change these to "Turn IR Light On: power" ?
   *These were renamed?  When I went back to commands to edit them they were 1117 and 1118?

Device Data:
 PK_FloorplanObjectType: allowed to modify, use master device list
 Capabilities:  (copied from Z-Wave light, not sure what they were)
 - I believe I missed a String ... something IR here to iput the code list?
   * Configuration(string) : power  430A014555F0 430A014555F0
   * Remote Layout : W    - no idea why I did this but it was in the wiki for adding support for new remote

Things that went well: and I hope let me know I am getting close.  No screaming errors from any of the plugins or DCERouter after reload router.  After creating the template I then selected "add a new top level device" and Generic IR Light was automatically made a child of the USBUIRT 0038.  On UI2, the light was added to the floorplan area and I was given the options of On or Off.

Things that need work:  The light didn't turn on from orbiter floorplan command.  I went to USBUIRT 0038 and checked for errors in the log, nothing!  I then selected show full log and that is where I found the problem.  
  "Can not get IR code for command 193"
  "Ignoring command 193, it is useless"
  "Can not get IR code for command 193"
  "Ignoring command 193, it is useless"


At this point I am now focusing in on one thing.  Regardless of what the device is called I need to know how to pin a IR code to a command.  I can then test this in the web-admin by selecting send command to device.  Once the code works and I know how to throw the code then I can tie that command to the IR controlled light and have access to it under lighting.

I hope this is on the correct track.  At this point it would appear that my input makes it to the correct device to send the signal.  I assume that once I have the orbiter controls (via lighting menu) knowing that the USBUIRT is the proper channel to get a signal out and the USBUIRT knows to throw code X when command X is received then the basic part of my template is correct.  I can worry about adding a possible saved state and other functions later.  Interestingly while looking through existing commands I found color under lighting.  I may get into this and add my flame effect controls through IR as well.  Other users wishing to control color changing string lights or similar could use the field to input their effect codes.

**Edit, The wall I am finding now and this may be the difficult part of getting Lighting and Infrared playing nice is I can't seem to edit "Command 192" that the lighting plugin sends to the USBUIRT.  My new created command is #11xx and points to the configuration(string).  Perhaps the editing I need to do doesn't lie with the Lighting Plugin or the new device, but instead in the command groups for USBUIRT.  This is a much broader template change that adding a new device and has the potential to break a lot of setups. 

Potential additions to USBUIRT 0038 would be "if command X is received from device Y, execute IR Remote Control command from device Z's device data" - stating that logically is obviously different than knowing how to state it in device data or writing a small executable...  Let me see what I can break.

http://wiki.linuxmce.org/index.php/Free_Part_Time_Online_Jobs

Silicon Dust HD HomeRun (dual tuner)

I have had this networked tuner for some time now and am still very happy with how it is configured automatically and how easy it was to get working with MythTV.

Recently however when toying around with a MD build I realized that my current settings only allow me to watch one live TV feed at a time.  These are not premium channels so I do not think the HomeRun would be limited to one feed because of that like some cable boxes are.  I was under the impression that a dual tuner HomeRun could feed two media directors with their own separate channel as long as no recording was going on.

In the web-admin each tuner has it's own IP address (-0 & -1)
In MythTV I did a full channel scan on each tuner (-0 & -1) to confirm each was working

The only setting I am unsure of is several of the recording rules where I left "LinuxMCE Default" as my selection choices.  I am under the impression that the system (lmce default or mythtv) is keeping one of my tuners in reserve, so that if a scheduled recording came up it would be ready?   Does anyone have experience using this Dual tuner and having to adjust tuner rules?  I eventually plan to add more of these units as the number of MDs in my house grows.  If I dual can feed two MD's then two HomeRuns would feed four MDs.  Under the current settings I would need 4 dual tuners to support 4 media directors...     

WinTV-150 PVR MCE Edition (PCI Analog only)

So I accept that this card is ancient and that unless I am going to be converting VHS tapes to DVD I should probably pull it.  It is working great now though under the ivtv utils and I would like to pick back up some functionality out of this dated card.  My question is for anyone who has configured a cable box in MythTV.  Using a IR controlled digital-to-analog converter I should be able to use this card much like one would use a cable box or satellite receiver.  I have a schedulesdirect subscription so I know the channel info.  What I am unable to figure out however is how to communicate to MythTV that everything will come in under channel 3.  When trying to apply the channel settings from my HD HomeRun channel scans I get the error that Myth is set to tune to channel 3 and channel 3 is not valid. 

*The IR converter box info is: Access HD DTA1010.  It has Coax output as well as component outputs (I get component and composite mixed up, its red yellow white) there is also a RS-232 port but I haven't had luck talking to it yet via serial, it's labeled "service" though I have seen that before on devices that once you get the port settings there is more available.  Once I troubleshoot the MythTV configuration I will get a simple template made based on a cable box and provide that for anyone wishing to dust off old cards and converters. 

[Background:]

Unlike my other project posted in the user's area I do plan to charge for these items so placed it here in Marketplace.


Several people have expressed interest in devoted in-wall orbiters.  So I have come up with a pretty slick idea that addresses a lot of the challenges of in-wall installations and offers extremely simple installation.  To make this end-user friendly I need to do most of the hardware work myself and ship out a polished product, for this I need to charge.

Background:
In-wall challenges:  Getting power and internet to the system board to run orbiter software, end users do not want to cut drywall and run new power lines inside walls.  Mounting and placement problems involved with large display touchscreen monitors, a 15" cheap touchscreen would be nice but you need access to cheap screens, drivers for the touchscreen, frames to mount cleanly, etc.  These issues are addressable on an individual basis by adventurous users but not easy to package and offer to everyone.  The below solution addresses these issues and offers a drop in solution for in-wall orbiters.

I have in my home 2 gang light switch wall plates with a single switch, the other half of the plate is unused.  My options were add another switch to the box or pull the box and downsize to a single gang box.  What I decided on doing was to add a LCD screen to this area, making the screen a touchscreen and having it control an orbiter was the process that led to this ad.  A simple solution to the challenge of power and internet is to use DC powered and already supported mobile devices with custom mounts behind the plate cover

What I am Offering:
I will custom make plate covers and mounts to house your specified device and have it safely installable and accessible.  I will include shields to separate the in-wall area that your device hides in from the home electrical power.  Access to your device for battery changes, setting changes, etc will therefore only involve removing the plate cover screws.  The option for in-wall wall-wort power running off the house AC is there but again that is more advanced and if you are not comfortable with AC power this would best be handled by an electrician.

Cost and Installation:
For most applications the original housing of the device needs to be modified so that its screen sits flush with the plate cover, some devices make this easy while others make this close to impossible.  Internal device circuitry also needs to be no taller than a standard plate cover or additional modification must be done.  For these reasons I can not quote a base cost.  Please supply the device you would like mounted and I will respond with a base estimate and more questions which will allow me to provide a not-to-exceed price.

Provided to you at project completion will be a plate cover with device attached and a mounting bracket.  You will need to cut an opening in the drywall next to your switch slightly smaller than the plate cover, this opening will be covered by the plate and will not show.  Place the provided mounting bracket into the hole, this will provide screw holes for your new plate and shield you in the future from coming near your home's AC power.  Next, screw in the new plate cover which contains your device.  Future access to the device then only requires removing 4-6 screws.

How this works, what if I can't do what I promised?
Anyone can promise something, and charge you for it.  After expressing interest to me and agreeing on a price, I will acquire the device on my own and begin manufacturing your solution.  When I am finished you will receive photographs and even a live webcam feed if you like to assure quality of construction.  At this point hopefully you are excited and wish to purchase at the original agreed price!  If you are not satisfied or I fail to make the custom device then I use the device in my own home and thank you for the recommendation.  Therefore your investment consists only of contacting me and explaining your desired device and unique application.  It will then be my responsibility of producing and item that exceeds your expectations and makes you comfortable purchasing.

Examples of Custom Applications:

Original 2 Gang Plate                                                                Custom 2.5 Gang Plate*
           

*Note that this image was photo edited.  When joining two separate plate covers one of them cracked.  Also the weather station is not powered on, that is the sticker overlay showing operation.  My choice to edit the photo was to show design and concept.  The plastic on these covers is very fragile, for future projects I will be making my own.  In a few days i will pick up some Lexan and after routing my plate cover shape I will paint the backside white to give it depth.


*Edit.  The Weather station screen is from a La Crosse wireless unit. "Stupid Hard" to modify as it uses elastomeric (Zebra Connection) from the embedded LCD controller to the screen, higher-end LCD screens with ribbon cable to the screen will be much easier to mount.  The outside temperature is fed from a wireless sending unit outside.  The 'indoor' temperature sensor is now inside the wall and while slow to adjust to changes is fairly accurate to the house temperature.  There are several hacker sites that have gained access to the wireless packets these units send.  Hopefully I am able to tune in that data on my wireless AP and get that sensor data fed to DCErouter.  If I get that working clean the template will be submitted for others to use, if plate mounted or set up standalone as La Crosse intended off the shelf.

I noticed you picked up a ton of ones I didn't think of.  As I was reading through it kept saying "ooh he thought of that!"  I think we have a good start we can add bits to as we think of them.

For my descriptions I recalled (this morning lol) reading through a wiki walk-through or install guide and keeping a separate browser tab open at all times to Google simple terms.  Most of the time all I need is a quick explanation of a protocol, command or acronym and can get that from Google search results page without even following a link.  I kept this in mind when doing my descriptions that if a users wants to master something there are better places than our wiki.  Hop to glossary, look something up, get back to your tutorial or hardware support page.

I would imagine only certain users can modify the main menu table to the left of every wiki page.  It would be nice to see a glossary link there for easy "right click open-in-new-tab" lookups.



 

... Well I hope it can be saved.  If not I have more foam and my dimensional drawings. 

Typically for something like I this I would finish off my wooden/foam/wire-mesh/whatever with DuraBond 90 in a few thin fast coats and be done with it.  I have worked with clay before but only for small parts where I shaped the part out of a solid block.  Using clay as a covering was an entirely different process that took me a while to get the hang of.  Instead of nice thin coats shaping sharp edges this wet clay I used actually worked best when applied an inch think and then dug back down to the shape I wanted.  I never did get the hang of a nice sharp line so deviated from my plans and added some slow curves.  - an hour later and it resembled a vase, an hour after that a standard fair clay pot.  Once I caught on to the idea of carving into excess clay for straight edges I was running out of steam.  Tomorrow I will decide if I like what I see, any chance anybody wants an ashtray/pot/vase?

l3mce - My classes are all on-line so combined with a LMCE hobby its pretty typical for me to have a string of bed-computerchair-bed days.  The day spent building something was a nice break that will let me get back to some template creation and C++ practice exorcises while I work on the wiring here at my desk/test bench.


I am aware that just because the device I am placing on top of this thing is supported under LMCE, this thread is not forum relevant.  Thank you for allowing me to post about it.  Because of feedback received I am going in a completely different direction electronically that without a doubt will make the difference between a working cradle and a pile of fiberglass and solder.